Lapped Zipper

9:24 PM

definition: a technique of sewing in a zipper commonly used in dresses, skirts and dress pants. This type of zipper has one row of topstitching.

How to sew a lapped zipper:

1. Sew seam up to the end point of where the zipper will be.

2. Press the right side of the seam along the seamline (at 5/8").

3. Press the left side of the seam at 1/2". It is important that you continue pressing 1/2" below the end point of the seam.

2. Pin the left side of the zipper to the left side of the fabric. Continue pinning to 1/2" below end point of seam. Be sure the fold of the fabric buts up against the zipper.

3. Use a zipper foot and move the needle over to the right side. Edgestitch along the fold of the fabric. Continue stitching 1/2" past the end point.
Note: The zipper foot is helpful because you won't have to sew with the foot over the zipper teeth.

It should look like this when you are finished.

4. Close the zipper. Place the right side of the fabric over the previous edgestitching. The fabric should lay as if the seam had continued all the way up the fabric.

5. Pin the right side of fabric in place.

6. Move the needle over to the left side. Using a seam gauge, place the needle at 3/8" from the fold.

7. Sew parallel to the fold.

8. When you reach the end point of the zipper. Stop, pivot and carefully sew across the zipper to the end point. Do not back stitch- instead, pull the top thread through and tie a square knot in the back.
Note: If you are using a zipper with metal zipper teeth, do not sew across the zipper. Stop at the end point and hand sew across the zipper.

It should look like this when you are done. (Sorry, the stitching isn't completely straight, but with a matching thread, it should be fine.

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